Action Photography Settings with the Canon EOS M50
Hey, this is Scott of Photography Banzai. Today are going to look at an action setup with a Canon EOS M50… Basically the entire camera all
those settings that would potentially work nicely for taking photos of moving
subjects. Can see it’s in Tv mode. With Tv you’re going to be adjusting the shutter
speed. That’s the key component to action photos in this setup. Of course, you can
press this little button here and switch to exposure adjustments with that.
Basically you’ll be adjusting shutter speed in this setup. Of course, depends on
the situation. Something else might work better for you, but with this setup we are going Tv.
Let’s go into the menu, first page, JPEGs. I have it set to the largest
JPEG. It’ll be a little faster, better for the camera instead of doing RAW photos.
But of course, you can do both and I have a button set up for that, that we’ll get to.
Image review you want that disabled. You don’t want that showing up in the
viewfinder when you’re trying to do action photos. Have these lens aberration
corrections disabled as well. Probably a little faster on the camera to not mess
with those. For the drive mode I’m going to use low-speed continuous for this
setup, but of course you can use the high-speed if you want depending on the
situation. Sometimes you might need more frames. But even the low speed is pretty
quick. Tab 1 page 2, we’re gonna look at the ISO settings. With Tv we have auto
ISO. in this case 6400 should be more than enough in a lot of situations, and with
the M50 anything higher than that is probably going to be pretty rough on the
photos. Auto lighting optimizer, I have this disabled. It’d probably be quicker.
If it’s something you think might work for you and adjust those JPEGs a little
better feel free to try it out. But I have it disabled. In the metering setup
you might need to adjust the metering depending on the situation you’ve got
the spot metering or partial, but I just have it set to the standard. With white
balance, auto white balance is decent on the M50. But of course you can
adjust that if you need to. Especially if you’re shooting JPEGs you do want to get
a good white balance for the photos. Picture style, I use faithful a lot, it’s
decent. But there of course are a lot of other ones to use potentially. Especially
with JPEGs this is something you do need to consider.
Through this we’ve got long exposure noise reduction. I turn all these off.
Touch shutter disabled. You don’t want anything on-screen messing with you.
Touch and drag AF settings are important in this case. We’ll be using the
viewfinder and we absolutely want this set up. It uses the
screen where you can touch it and move the focus area for the viewfinder and it
works very nicely. That means we want to enabled. Positioning method absolute. In
this case it’s very quick to use it instead of relative. Basically, absolute
allows you to move your finger a lot less to cover the entire screen with the
focus area. Of course, you can use relative if it works better for you. Try
them both out and see which one works for your situation. In my case I use my
left eye with the viewfinder and I prefer top left. So in this general area.
With all of the AF settings we’ve got servo mode. That’s important! You want it
to continuously focus on your subject on your focus area and not stop. In this
case we will have a button set up to just between these quickly, but generally
you can try tracking. But I prefer the zone AF. It’s a large box of focus
areas that it continuously tries to focus on. It just is a little bit
quicker. A little bit more consistent and you don’t have to mess with it as much.
Of course you can also try the single point AF, but in general I like the zone
focusing with this action setup. With this continuous AF it basically means
the camera will constantly try to focus. We don’t want that. We just want it to try
to focus when we’re getting ready to take a photo. So half pressing the
shutter, or pressing another button if it’s set up like that. Have this AF
assist light disabled. In many situations with action you’re not going
to be close enough to use that effectively. So it’s just something… a
hinderance… I have it turning off. With the peaking settings, unless you’re doing
manual focus, disable it. IS settings are related to video in this
case, so we have that disabled. Of course, if your lens has internal stabilization,
you might as well turn it on. With all the movie settings are not going to be
messing with this stuff for action photos. I have all of the wireless
settings disabled in this case. We don’t want to mess with that. Wastes power. Just
not needed in this situation. You want the ECO mode off. You want the power
saving to whatever works best for you. In this case… might want to disable this
so that the viewfinder always stays on. In an action situation we’ll be using
the viewfinder exclusively, but it will have a button setup to switch between
the viewfinder and the screen. In this case we’re going to go manual,
and just for this video it is set to screen. But you can easily set it
to viewfinder and that’s what you’ll want to do. Let’s go into the viewfinder
format. Now, this is a preference thing but I prefer the smaller view. It’s a
little easier with glasses. Now you can use that larger one if you’d like, but I
have that set up to number two. In this case, you definitely want the higher
frames per second in the viewfinder. So I have that set up to smooth. Reverse
display, that’s not something you need to care about in this situation. You can
disable that. Shooting info display, let’s go in here. Screen info settings… With not much on it. Let’s go inside there. You can see
I only have this one checkbox set up. Otherwise this adds a lot of extra stuff
to the screen that we don’t need to really care about in these situations.
You can, of course, check these out and see if they would help you with your
setup. But in my case I want it as basic as possible. So you just got that one
single screen less things to change accidentally. Especially in actions
situations you want it quick, you want it consistent. Let’s go into the viewfinder. Same
set up. We have as minimal as possible. We don’t need this extra information. Here this is a preference thing. I have it set up to the 3×3 diagonal with the lines, but
of course you can turn these gridlines off. So you can see those lines do show
up on the screen and it makes it’s easier to adjust to where your position
is and get it straight on diagonals. So just something to consider if you do
want that you’re a little bit of help. You can see on the screen it is very
minimal. If you try to press the info button nothing changes, but that’s what
we want. Go back into the menu. Check all these other ones out. Custom
functions, so we’re going to be adjusting the controls based on this action setup.
The first one is standard. Not going to mess with this. Now, you can adjust it so
it only does metering or auto exposure lock. Depending on how you want it set up
you can actually set this button to focus. But in this case with the M50 it’s
hard to press this one button and that at the same time with one hand.
So I just leave it as is. Here for this button I actually have
this adjusted for autofocus off. In some situations if you’re have pressing the
shutter, you’ve got a subject locked and you want the autofocus to just stop…
You can hold this button down here as I have it set up, and I’ll do that.
The M-Fn button on the top here I have set to switch between the viewfinder and
the screen. That way it’s not going to use this sensor because I set it to
manual. With that button, that allows us to use the screen when we need to. But
basically we’re focused on the viewfinder. So that button will help us
switch when we have to. So we go in here… You can pick this one, switch between VF
and screen. As you can see the sensor is not working. Press the button it switches
to the viewfinder. Press it again goes back to the back screen. So this one I
set up the video recording button to RAW or JPEG. So in this case let’s just look
in here. You can see one touch… It cycles between those. So the button is up here
on top. You can see that it is cycling between RAW or RAW plus JPEG, or just
JPEG. That allows us to use RAW when we really want to, but in most situations
JPEG would be good with these action photos. So here we leave this as is with
the exposure compensation. That’s the top button right here. Here we also leave
af/mf as is. Sometimes you might want to use manual focus. Here with the the flash
icon I use AF method. This allows us to cycle between AF methods. I have that set
up in a lot of my videos. You can see it easily allows you to pick one of these
three. Press the ‘Q’ and switches there. It’s very convenient, it’s quick, and it’s
a perfect button for this specific thing. As I said before I use zone AF, but you
can use one of the three as you prefer. The trash button, I do have this
adjustment as well. It’s not super necessary, but I have it setup to ISO speed.
Just in case I want to adjust that setup and go from auto to something else. So
it’s pretty quick and easy to have a button on there. In action situations
having the buttons configured like that really helps out. The last thing I have
adjusted here is the “my menu”. I set up a few different options
here that you might want to consider adding to one of these my menus. That way
if you leave it on there you press the menu button it’ll stay and jump right to
this screen. Gives you some things quick access and it can be convenient.
So basically Drive Mode, ISO settings, highlight tone priority if we’re using JPEGs,
that could be useful. Metering mode, white balance… Again, with JPEGs adjusting white balance can be useful. And picture style, that again with JPEGs something
useful. So these can be adjusted as you would like, as you prefer. You can have
multiple screens, but in this case these settings with Tv mode and JPEGs I could
see potentially using these and wanting quick access. Hope you found this setup
useful. Scott of Photography Banzai.